From the shadow of reds, white Crozes-Hermitage finds its voice

Since the early 2000s, white wines have gradually stepped into the culinary limelight. Around the world, restaurants and retailers have begun to champion a broad spectrum of once-niche white wines, and Canada is no exception. In this fast-evolving landscape, Crozes-Hermitage unquestionably stands out as an appellation that deserves to be (re)discovered, particularly for its white wines, which have proven to be outstanding companions for gourmet foods. Michelle Bouffard shares some table talk.

White wines by numbers
According to the International Organisation of Vine & Wine (OIV), global white wine production has risen by 13% since 2002. In recent years, whites have claimed a 49% share of production, overtaking reds. This shift is also reflected in consumer preferences, including among Canadians. In Quebec, for instance, recent data released by the SAQ reveal that white wines now account for 45.3% of sales, up 3% on 2023.

White Crozes-Hermitage wines come of age
By acreage, Crozes-Hermitage is the largest appellation in the northern Rhone Valley, spanning a total 1,964 hectares, 239 of them dedicated to white wines. Since 2016-2017, ex-cellar releases of white Crozes-Hermitage have grown by around 2 to 3%. “It used to be very difficult to sell whites”, explains appellation chairman Yann Chave. “Today, bulk wine prices speak volumes about their popularity. Whilst red wines sell for between 6.50 and 7 euros per litre, whites have climbed to 7.50 to 7.80 euros per litre. This is unprecedented”. Long overshadowed by their red counterparts, white Crozes-Hermitage wines are now asserting themselves as characterful expressions with a strong sense of identity, embracing a decidedly modern outlook. Whether enjoyed in their youth or after a few years of bottle ageing, their remarkable versatility allows them to grace the finest tables.

Varietal signatures in white
Marsanne is the most widely planted grape variety, accounting for around 80% of the white varietal range compared with 20% for Roussanne. Marsanne delivers powerful wines marked by distinctive floral notes that flow into toasted hazelnut tones, whilst Roussanne brings elegance and honeysuckle aromatics that, with age, drift towards dried fruit and honeyed nuances. White Crozes-Hermitage characters vary not only according to the proportion of each grape variety, but to the origin of the grapes themselves. Wines from the Les Châssis area in the southern part of the appellation tend to be richer and more instantly appealing, whereas those from the northern reaches – where vineyards sit at higher elevations and soils contain more clay – offer greater tension. Yet beyond the distinctive qualities and nuances shaped by varietal expression, terroir and the individual hand of the producer, white Crozes-Hermitage is ultimately defined by its salinity and fine sourness on the finish. These elements balance the generosity of the fruit and rounded acidity whilst amplifying the sense of freshness. And it is precisely this balance that makes the wines such assured companions at the table.

Gourmet food pairings: from Peking duck to halibut
Although white Crozes-Hermitage wines remain a niche category in Canada, they are prized by sommeliers and fine wine enthusiasts. Admittedly, the culinary landscape differs substantially from east to west, yet these wines have effortlessly earned their place on tables across the country. Their natural affinity with British Columbian cuisine, for instance – shaped by strong Asian influences – stems from the fine sourness and floral tones that define the wines. Pair them with Peking duck or tuna tataki with grilled sesame and the harmony becomes immediately apparent. In eastern Canada, harsher winters have forged heartier culinary traditions, particularly during the colder months. Here, the lush texture and sensuality of white Crozes-Hermitage make them ideal partners for our comforting dishes featuring fish, mushrooms or white meats. As for our seafood – Atlantic lobster or scallops or halibut from the Pacific – it shows beautifully alongside white Crozes-Hermitage wines.