Crozes-Hermitage through the four seasons in Montreal
Montreal is one of the few places around the world that can pride itself on having four ‘real’ seasons. From extreme cold in the winter through to balmy late summer evenings, Quebec’s cuisine evolves continuously throughout the year. The versatility of Crozes-Hermitage wines makes them the ideal match for every seasonal dish. We join Karyne Duplessis Piché for a year of dining, guided by the rhythms of the seasons.
My homeland is winter
When the days grow shorter and the mercury plunges below zero, Montrealers turn instinctively to comfort food. And comfort food here has a name: poutine. This hearty dish brings together fries and cheese curds topped with hot gravy. According to sommelier Julien Dellaporte, a juicy, fruit-forward and generous Syrah from Crozes-Hermitage is the obvious pairing choice. He suggests seasoning the sauce with black pepper and juniper berries to echo the spicy notes often found in the French appellation’s red wines. The poutine served at Au Pied du Cochon is legendary for its decadence, and with good reason. Chef Martin Picard elevates the dish with escalope of duck foie gras. For the restaurant’s sommelier, Alexandre Meilleur, the duck and the Crozes-Hermitage Syrah are a match made in heaven!
Hey gentle spring, when will you be back?
Spring unfolds in two distinct phases in Montreal. It begins with sugar time when maple water is harvested and draws to a close around Mother’s Day. White Crozes-Hermitage is a great choice for both occasions. The fruity notes of Marsanne and Roussanne lift the hearty fare typical of sugar shacks, where each dish is napped with generous helpings of maple syrup – examples include ham cooked in syrup and ‘oreilles de crisse’ or deep-fried salted pork rinds. Time spent in oak by some of the whites further enhances pairings with maple syrup. A few weeks later, when the weather grows milder, lobster fishermen head out to sea. Their catch generally graces restaurant tables and fish stalls in the metropolis by Mother’s Day which is celebrated in mid-May. However the lobster is prepared, sommelier Caroline Beaulieu (from the Legend restaurant)recommends white Crozes-Hermitage as an ideal foil for the shellfish with its flavourful flesh.
Barbecue aficionados
Montrealers barbecue all year round, but the cooking technique reaches its peak over the summer. For Pamela Sepa, owner and sommelier at the Que sera syrah wine bar, Syrah is a must with grilled meat – and it needn’t be complicated. A fruity, spicy Crozes-Hermitage can add that special touch to every grill, she says, recommending serving beef tataki-style with a glaze of maple syrup and soy sauce. To celebrate summer, she often pours lightly chilled Les Pitchounettes by Domaine Les 4 Vents.
Harvest season
As the leaves change colour, so too does the food on the plate. Garden-grown green salad leaves, broccoli and cucumber make way for the warm, autumnal hues of squash. According to sommelier Jonathan Ross, the more ample, generous texture of white Crozes-Hermitage makes it the perfect match for harmonious pairings with this quintessential fall vegetable. “For pumpkin, butternut or acorn squash, think Marsanne and Roussanne!” he advises. While sommeliers rarely suggest pairing wine and soup – preferring to avoid combining two liquids during the same course – Jonathan Ross goes out on a limb and suggests serving acorn squash soup with white Crozes-Hermitage. “What matters most is the serving temperature”, he explains. “At 14-15°C, the wine reveals notes of orange blossom, yellow flowers, stone fruits and peaches”.
