Crozes-Hermitage shines under the Michelin stars of Quebec

The red and white wines of this French appellation have not only earned a place on the wine lists of the first Michelin-starred restaurants in Quebec’s ‘Old City’, they have also won a lasting place in the hearts of Quebec’s chefs and sommeliers who opened up to Karyne Duplessis Piché.

Michelin stars light up Quebec City
Chefs in Quebec City had long awaited the arrival of Michelin stars, though not without a certain apprehension. Unveiled in June 2025, the Guide’s first selection reignited the long-standing culinary rivalry between Quebec City and Montreal. Ultimately, chefs in the ‘Old City’ garnered more stars than those in the metropolis, an outcome that came as no surprise to culinary communicator Allison Van Rassel: “Quebec City’s chefs are highly accomplished technicians in the kitchen and very well-versed in French gastronomy”, she explains. “This is what the Guide recognised. Does this mean that Quebec City’s cuisine is better than Montreal’s? Absolutely not. What it highlights is a particular level of technical mastery”. And, one might add, of proficiency in wine…

Where Syrah speaks first
Unsurprisingly, wine lists in Quebec restaurants tend to lean heavily towards French wines. Laurie-Raphaël illustrates this perfectly: a genuine institution, located in Quebec City’s Old Port, the restaurant lists over 750 wines sourced from all four corners of the wine world. According to its sommelier, Julien Dallaporta, not featuring Crozes-Hermitage would be unthinkable: “This appellation is one of the great classics”, he says. “When you start studying the Rhone Valley, you inevitably end up with a glass of Crozes-Hermitage in your hand”. A short walk away, La Tanière is tucked among the narrow streets of Old Quebec and remains the province’s only restaurant awarded two Michelin stars. Both its menu and the wines served are revealed to patrons at the last moment. Its sommelier and wine director, Jonathan Ross, also has a particular fondness for Crozes-Hermitage, which he sees as offering genuine value for money for his patrons: “Crozes-Hermitage is a dependable choice and a real asset on a wine list. You get to taste Syrah grown in its birthplace – the northern Rhone Valley – at price that remains accessible”, he explains.

Pairing character with creativity
Sommelier Caroline Beaulieu curates the wine list at Légende, another Michelin-starred restaurant located in Quebec City’s Old Port. She believes that beyond their strong value for money, Crozes-Hermitage wines stand out for their inclusiveness at the table: “Not everyone around the table shares the same tastes or eats the same dishes”, she notes. “With Crozes-Hermitage, it’s hard to go wrong”. A sentiment echoed by Julien Masia, the chef and owner of Arvi, the Michelin-starred restaurant in the Limoilou district. Particularly drawn to white wines from the northern Rhone Valley, he sees Marsanne and Roussanne as an opportunity to offer guests a new experience. According to the chef, these varieties produce highly textured wines which partner remarkably well with gourmet foods. At La Tanière, sommelier Jonathan Ross stresses that both white and red Crozes-Hermitage possess enough personality to stand up to the creativity and boldness of chefs: “Crozes-Hermitage shows great respect for terroir and embodies history and tradition. In my view, it’s a choice that belongs on any wine list. And this holds true not only for Michelin-starred restaurants but for more accessible dining venues as well”. Syrah is renowned for its structure on the palate and is often served with red meats. At Arvi, Julien Masia recommends serving red Crozes-Hermitage with rabbit in a chocolate-based sauce inspired by mole. At Laurie-Raphaël, Julien Dallaporta points out that the versatility of Crozes-Hermitage makes Syrah a convincing partner for vegetarian dishes, particularly when served with well-seasoned, smoky sauces.

Drink now or hold
Fewer wine lovers today have the patience – or the room – to lay bottles down and restaurants are no exception, many having released their mature vintages during the pandemic. For Julien Dallaporta, Crozes-Hermitage is accessible in its youth. In these Rhone vineyard sites, Syrah is bursting at the seams with fruit and expresses its hallmark aromas of violet and white pepper. Yet those willing to wait will not be disappointed, claims the sommelier at Laurie-Raphaël: “When we get the opportunity to work with more mature vintages, it opens the door to even more interesting pairings”, he stresses. “We can even serve it with cheese”. After spending a decade or so in the cellar, Syrah’s tannins become riper and silkier. And as Dallaporta likes to remind us, the real challenge is not finding the right pairing – it’s having the patience to wait before enjoying it. A lesson learned from experience…